In Japan: A Journey through clouds to Mount Fuji’s Sacred Peak

Story and Photos by Lee Daley

In Japan, at dawn on the first day of January each year, hundreds gather at the base of Mount Fuji to witness the maiden sunrise ushering in the new year. The Ainu tribe, Japan’s ancient indigenous peoples, believed the sun was one of the most powerful among hundreds of gods, actually the most important of all. To witness the annual hatsuhinode, as it is called, is to partake in a sacred act.

If the morning fog lifts, the sun crests near the peak to shimmer like a gem. When it aligns perfectly with the summit, this rare sight is called Diamond Fuji. On clear days you can see the volcano from Tokyo, nearly 60 miles away. That said, both the sunrise and Fuji’s peak often remain veiled in mist and seductive mystery.

Fog enshrouded Mount Fuji above the village of Oshino Hakai.

So it was for us as my spouse and I scanned the horizon in the town of  Oshino Hokkai for a glimpse of Mount Fuji’s peak. Overhead, white clouds billowed, reflecting brilliantly in the still waters of a nearby pond. A narrow path traced the course of a rambling creek below, drawing us downward with quiet hope that the shifting sky might grant us even the briefest view.

At the ridge line, a small building with a tempting rooftop viewpoint beckoned.” Three yen,” the desk clerk informed us and we didn’t hesitate, so eager were we to see the mountain. As we walked through the small building, eyes on the horizon, we noticed cloud movement and headed outside to a flower-strewn pathway lined with vintage buildings and a water wheel. The gods looked down on us, I am convinced. Suddenly, Mount Fuji, without a trace of demure, appeared.

Reaching up above the clouds, Fuji-san’s majestic presence and symmetry immediately captured my sense of awe. Though it was a warm May afternoon, streaks of snow still capped its peak. Appearing to float, a singular delicate cloud, lighter than air, clambered across its summit, instantly dramatizing Fuji’s silent strength and power. Knowing our time was short, we lingered until the last minute, capturing photos, taking in its essence, imprinting it in our memories.

Mount Fuji embraced by clouds above Ohsino Hakal village.

Returning to town, we learned that snow melt from Mount Fuji’s peak had created the ponds—eight in all—in the village here. Seeping underground, becoming subterranean water, snow melt is naturally filtered through layers of lava for about 80 years before surfacing as crystal-clear spring-fed ponds.

The tallest in Japan, Mount Fuji stands at 3,776 meters high (12,389 feet) and is renowned for its almost perfect volcanic cone shape, formed by thousands of years of accumulated lava flows and volcanic ash. Fuji-san’s last eruption occurred in 1707.

Onward, we then traveled south to Lake Yamanaka in the Five Lakes Region where the lakes form a magical arc around the northern half of Mount Fuji. The lakes, Kawaguchi, Yamanaka, Sai, Motosu, and Shōji at 3,300 feet about sea level, were also formed by lava flows from ancient eruptions. Today, clear snow melts and seasonal rains continually gift the lakes’ crystal blue waters, nourishing their beauty for all to enjoy.

Early the next morning, after an overnight stay near Lake Yamanaka, our excellent guide, Yama, arranged ascension via coach to a halfway point up the mountain at the Fifth Station, the highest starting point for climbers who plan a trek to the summit. Here, we walked through a dramatic red torii gate toward the Komitake Shrine and one more anticipated view of the mountain.

A large torii gate marks the entrance to the Komitake Shrine, a small Shinto shrine with a peek-a-boo view of Mt. Fuji from the gate and a more dramatic view once at the shrine..

Because Mount Fuji is Japan’s most sacred mountain, beloved and worshiped by her people, many consider Komitake Shrine a guardian deity watching over the safety of climbers and all who visit. Built in 937, the shrine reflects the mountain’s enduring spiritual importance. Here, we wandered around taking in stunning lake views and another endearing view of Mount Fuji, posing perfectly not far from the shrine.

Fujisan Komitake Shrine Altar.

The altar at the Fuji-san Komitake Shrine serves as a place where people can offer prayers, make offerings, and express reverence to the enshrined deities, particularly the Tengu, who are revered as path-opening deities and guardian spirits of mountain climbers. In Japanese, “-san” is used as a suffix to honor and show respect and is often used in reference to Mount Fuji,

Majestic Mount Fuji viewed from Station Five.

Here, of course, we lingered and gaped, taking in the majesty of Fuji-san”s snow-capped peak, once again enshrouded in clouds,

With a goal of viewing the mountain perched over one of the iconic Five Lakes, we left the Fifth Station heights and headed to the shores of Lake Kawaguchico. Because the lake is positioned in the foothills of Mount Fuji, on clear days it offers a mirror image reflection of the sacred mountain on the lake’s crystal waters. We loved our time at this lake, finding its serenity almost hypnotic as we inhaled the peaceful energy it exuded while strolling its shores. Viewing Fuji-san, however, meant occasionally spying the mountain’s crest frustratingly caressed by clouds as it occasionally, but only modestly, revealed itself.

Mount Fuji as seen from Lake Kawaguchico through the clouds.

I soon found the shifting clouds playing over Mount Fuji’s slopes gave a sense of the sacred. While wandering the many trails around the lake’s shores, our interlude evolved into a tranquil, meditative meander blessed by the beauty of the crystal clear waters, always in the presence of Fuji san.

Geishas dressed in style honor tradition and reverence for women.

Japanese culture today: Japan owes its distinct culture to many events in its history and evolution as a nation. For me, I especially felt its reverence for tradition, for nature and for the spiritual essence of life itself. These traits are manifested constantly in ceremonial tea services, adherence to common courtesy, and so much more. Naturally, things have changed over time but tradition, symbolism and ritual still pervade Japanese life. Today the culture is a blend of respect for the past and for futurism as well.

One example is the history of the geisha, who represents both of these qualities. The geisha remains a reminder of female power and is continually respected as a symbol of female liberation. One often sees small groups of women dressed traditionally to celebrate this legacy.

Mount-Fuji as seen from Lake Kawaguchico. (Courtesy of Japan Guides)

If You Go: Each season offers different highlights. For instance, the photo above was taken during the Cherry Blossom season, usually during March and April. The other images in this article were taken in mid- to late May.

Related Article: Read more on Japan travel here: //https:travelexaminer.net/japan-odyssey-part-1-tokyo-to-kanagawa/

More information on travel to Japan is available at: https://www.japan.travel/en/us/